Wines with a story to tell

I can still remember where I was, who I was with and what I was eating when in the mid-1980s I had my first taste of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc. I was fortunate enough to secure a case of the first vintage of this wine to arrive in the UK, and that first glass was unlike anything I had ever tasted before, it was for me quite literally electrifying. This is a wine that altered our perceptions at the time and if you need further proof look at the number of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc that now line the shelves.

It used to be on strict allocation but Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, is widely available and although there are now many other Marlborough producers making great Sauvignon Blanc, this is still an iconic label. It is the purity of fruit which is so appealing with those classic aromas of tropical fruits, lime and grapefruit and a palate that is almost thrilling with its intensity, zesty acidity and mouth-watering finish. Match with asparagus and goats cheese or Asian inspired dishes.

I have also been lucky enough to visit many of the world's great wine regions and Western Australia's Margaret River is a region that has left a deep impression on me. Vasse Felix was the first commercial vineyard in Margaret River and I have cellared their wines ever since having lunch at the fantastic winery restaurant – one of the best vineyard meals I have ever had – some years ago. If I had to choose one wine, it would be Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay which is simply world class wine, but Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2021, Maragaret River, is a great introduction to these brilliant wines. This offers green apples, stone fruits, citrus and some oyster shell on the nose, followed by a nicely textured palate with bright acidity and a long, cool finish. Great value compared to Burgundy and one to serve with scallops or firm textured fish.

Rioja is a region I revisit as often as I can and I have a deep affection for. La Rioja Alto is one of Rioja's iconic producers and La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserve, Rioja, is benchmark traditional Rioja. It is a blend of 80 percent Tempranillo and 20 percent Garnacha which has been aged in American oak casks which were made in the estate-owned cooperage. There are red fruits, liquorice  and Asian spices, all framed by vanilla oak notes on the nose, followed by a plush, smooth palate with silky tannins and a long, long finish. Perhaps the perfect wine to drink with a roast leg of lamb.

Closer to home, the South Downs are now home to some of the most exciting wines being produced anywhere in the world, who would of thought that 20 years ago? Hambledon Vineyard is not only the oldest commercial vineyard in England but also one of the absolute stars of English sparkling wine producers, all down to the vision of one man, Ian Kellet, who I have known for many years. The whole range is exceptional but if I had to choose one it would be Hambledon Première Cuvée NV, Hampshire. If you want to know what all the excitement is about or why several Champagne producers are setting up camp here then this is the wine to taste.

Aged for at least 6 years on its lees, the nose offers up baked apple, lemon curd, orange peel and oyster shell, followed by a structured, quite creamy palate with bright acidity and a long persistent finish with real complexity.

And finally, the one question I get asked more than any other is "what is your favourite wine?" The truth is I don't have one as there are just so many and it changes all the time. But if you asked which wine would I take with me to a desert island if I was only allowed one then it would be Reyneke Chenin Blanc. I have visited this South African biodynamic farm many times over the years and Johan Reyneke is without a question one of the most inspiring people involved in wine you will ever meet.

According to Tim Atkin MW and his highly regarded annual South African Special Report, Reyneke is one of South Africa's "First Growths" and given the quality of the wines it is easy to see why. Reyneke Chenin Blanc 2022, Biodynamic, Stellenbosch is produced from two adjacent vineyards which were planted in the 1970s, one of which was saved by Johan from the neighbouring farm and regenerated using biodynamic practices.

You could happily put this away for a few years but it is quite delicious now and I would serve it with scallops or a slow cooked shoulder of pork. It is not showy, brash wine, rather something more gentle and thought provoking. There is a phrase in Italian which roughly translates as 'wine of contemplation' and for me this is one of those wines, a wine with a true sense of place.

This article was originally published in Portsmouth News on 3 June 2023. Visit portsmouth.co.uk